Friday, March 28, 2014

The Tatra Mountains

Niebieska Turnia. Pic. www.bartoszjania.com
Yes, these are not the Alps, nor the Pyrenees! The Tatra Mountains are located in the southern Poland, right on the current border with Slovakia and they are the only high mountains in the country. It is a polish treasure, though. Different culture, beautiful views and uniqueness on the area of Poland makes this place very special. I dare even say, that almost every Pole was there at least once.

I will not bore you with a history of the national park located at this place. All you need to know, that is it one of the oldest in Poland, established in 1955. The interesting part is nature. The views may seem similar to the alpine landscape, but the real mountain fan can see the difference between them. High density of the hiking trials will help to get to the most beautiful parts of the range. And find out the magic of this place. So let's hike around a bit!

Czarny Staw
View from Świnica. Pics. www.bartoszjania.com
The Chochołowska Valley

The longest and the biggest valley in the polish Tatras and the place where in 1938 people tried to beat the record of the highest baloon flight in the world. Tried. But it is not the reason why you should came here. Arrive in early spring and you will not regret. View of the vast purple carpet of crocuses is breathtaking. The pictures cannot even express the real beauty of this place in that specific period. To prove this opinion it is worth to mention that it was the most favourite touristic spot of the pope John Paul II. And that is the reason why:


Source: plangenerator.pl
Source: polskalokalna.pl
The Valley of the Five Polish Ponds (Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich)

One of the most popular valleys in the Tatras, where the very first tourists appeared even in 19th century. As the name says during the hike you will find five small ponds - paradoxically one of the deepest lakes in Poland reaching even 79 m under the surface. Where did they come from? The reason is hidden in the past. Back in time the Tatra Mountains were glaciated - the lakes are the remainings of the glaciers, which modelled the area around - including mentioned valley.When the ice has melted, the ponds appeared. The biggest of them is Wielki Staw Polski. The valley has interesting flora as well - you may find here many endemic species, which cannot be found in any other place around the world.

Siklawa waterfall on the way to the Valley
Wielki Staw
Pic. www.bartoszjania.com

Source: mojetatry.pl 
Source: myzakopane.pl
Morskie Oko

The biggest and absolutely the most famous lake in the Tatras with one of the oldest shelters in the mountains nearby, built in 1908. How famous? In 1873 Walery Eljasz has written that "being in the Tatras and not to see Morskie Oko is like to be in Rome and not to see the pope". The place was even a subject of a dispute between Galicia and Hungary in 19th century. As a popular spot it must have its own legend - it is said that the lake has a connection to the Adriatic Sea. The proof of that meant to be the bottle "fished out" from the lake, which came from the sunken ship... The name of that pond might be confusing as well. In fact "Morskie Oko", which means "Sea's Eye" comes from german "meerauge". The Germans used to call like that every lake in the Tatras in the past and the real polish name is Biały Staw (White Pond) or Rybi Staw (Fish Pond). The second name has a simple explanation - it is a lake, where the fish are living in natural conditions - they were not "planted" here by the people. Nevertheless... Maybe some pictures of the place as an encouragement?

Pic. www.bartoszjania.com
Source: fabianka.flog.pl
Source: turystyka.wp.pl
Rysy

The hightest peak in Poland - 2499 meters asl. When Dutch people, who live -70 meters below sea level, would die there due to lack of the air at this elevation, the Austrians would say that they have never been so low in their lives trying to understand, how something below 4000 meter can be consider as "high". Anyway in Poland it is equal to "the biggest" and it would be difficult to change, but polish poeple do not complain. This is an another specific spot with unique, endemic flora, where the hiking trial leads. Imagine, that above the elevation of 2483 you still may see 63 different species of flowering plants and many of them could be found only in the Tatras. The view from the peak is astonishing. During good weather conditions from the top you may see Cracow, which is about 100 km away!

The top of Rysy. Pic. www.bartoszjania.com
Source: turnia.pl
Giewont

There is no Poland, if there is no cross somewhere. Even in the mountains. The peak of Giewont is the symbol of Zakopane - the city located at the foot of the Tatras. The legend says, that it is a sleeping knight - and its appearance may really resemble a lying body. Giewont had many sibilings - one of them was Osobita, his sister. The brave knight's task was to keep the family safe, so when the king Mróz (Frost) wanted to get closer to her he kept him away. It made him angry, so with his mistress they planned a ruse. She [the mistress] tried to seduce Giewont. And when he replied for the flirt the king Mróz has frozen his feet and they made him fell on the back. And Giewont sleeps until today. Nevertheles it is famous pilgrimage point because of the mentioned 17-meter cross from 1901 on the top.

On the way to the Giewont's top. Pic. www.bartoszjania.com
Source: wikimedia.org

The sleeping knight. Source: wikimedia.org
If you are interested in wintersports you will find a place for you as well. Kasprowy Wierch with a famous ski lift and the destination of the skiers of Poland. But let's be honest - you cannot compare that to the Alps or even to the Slovak part of the Tatras.- it is the only place where real alpine sking "occures" in Poland. So maybe you will give it a try? Anyway, it was just a brief presentation of that mountain range, but you should come here on your own and discover its beauty. I am sure that many of you even have not considered the existance of the views like that in this country. But well... there is still so much to describe!








Pics. www.bartoszjania.com

Sunday, March 9, 2014

The Fortified Front Oder-Warthe-Bogen


I have met many people. So as many travel purposes - to see the art and visit museums, to discover nature and, of course, to party. But there are also people interested in specific issues, such as war, for instance. And this is the place especially for them - the Fortified Front Oder-Warthe-Bogen (MRU) (pol. Międzyrzecki Rejon Umocniony, ger. Festungsfront Oder-Warthe-Bogen)

Let's go back to the past, though. 90 years back. The original german plan for the II WW was to attack France, not Poland. Due to the alliance between those two countries, Germany had to defend its eastern border - Poland, in case of invasion, vowed to attack Germans from the East. The works started already in 1925 - Germany decided to strengthen the fortresses and fortify the rivers and natural water obstacles along the border. Although the most important, strategic part of the stucture, called "Lubuska Gate", was still not built.

Source: ruszajwdroge.pl
Why was that part so important? It was the central section of the project, between Warta and Oder rivers. If you would take a look on the map and localize Berlin, the entire plan may seem undersandable. Relation is very simple - Hitler attacks France, the whole army goes to the West and leaves unprotected Berlin. Polish soldiers choose the easiest way to get through the East Germany - straight to the capital. Poland wins the war, everybody gets drunk. But, unfortunately, things turned out otherwise. Nevertheless Fuhrer started to build the mentioned part in 1933. Hitler even visited the construction site in 1935 and was very satisfied. His flattering opinion encouraged the builders to work even harder - comparing to MRU the Maginot Line supposed to be a system of Lego constructions made by a dog.

However, because of the Fall Grun (Case Green), which completely changed the direction of the attack from France to Czechoslovakia, the whole fortification line became unnecessary. Furthermore, it would be useful during the I WW, but the rules have changed and the MRU became just a problem for the Germans. Eventually the system was conquered by the Red Army in 3 days in 1945. The reason why it was so quick is simple - it was defended by a small group of soldiers, mainly elders, who had no professional training and just ran away from the battlefield.

Until the beginning of the II WW Hitler finished about 30% of the plan. Along 100 km Germans managed to built 106 bunkers, of which 21 are connected together with a 31-kilometers long tunnels network 40 meters under the ground.



We have met our guide in the small museum, where is an opportunity to see original german mines and things left by soldiers during the war - guns, bags, outfits, documents etc. After a small introduction we went out to the 10-kilometer long system of protection against tanks called "the dragon's teeth" or "the camel humps" and afterwards we headed to the main attraction - the bunker nr 717.


The Dragon's Teeth

If you have ever played the Call of Duty or the Medal of Honour you might feel in this place like on the mission. The first floor is an "life zone" and a place where the soldiers could defend themselves. Narrow corridors and makeshift toilets and bedrooms perfectly capture the atmosphere - you may have an impression, that the soldiers left the shelter just a few days ago. Even the telephone looks like it is about to ring with the orders. Let's move on deeper under the ground, though. We reach the most important part - magazine, barracks, engine room and... the railway station! There is even opportunity to try it! The reason of its existance is simple - 31 kilometers of tunnels is quite difficult to get through. The construction is impressive, but it is the end yet. As it turns out the system is also the home for... 35 thousand bats! In the winter they are sleeping on the walls of the corridors and in the niches we may meet even whole groups of them. The natural reserve was established in 1980 here - to save the hideout of those lovely creatures.








As a conclusion. Even if you are not someone, who spends every afternoon dressed like an officer with a metal detector looking for the bullets and soldiers' teeth it may be place for you. This is an unique enclave, where you can feel the climate of the II WW. However, the smallest amount of interest is required - otherwise it is going to be the 2,5 hour trip in the dark corridors, where some crazy bat can attack you. But for me it sounds interesting. How about you?





Tuesday, March 4, 2014

The Wieliczka Salt Mine


Many places on our planet, in my personal opinion, is overrated. I do not want to bring exact examples - everybody has a different taste. Nevertheless there are things, objects and particular buildings we have never heard before and after one visit we simply fall in love because of its extraordinariness. I believe that Wieliczka Salt Mine might be one of them.

Of course this place is not completely unknown. Over one million visitors each year is an impressive result. Although everybody have heard about the Eiffel Tower, Venice, the Great Wall of China, or the Pyramides in Giza, but Wieliczka was the one, which was included in the very first UNESCO list in 1978. It is a great honour, because there were only 12 objects from all over the world on that list. It is worth to mention, that Cracow's Old Town was there as well. 

Let's find out why is this mine so special. It is said, that the beggining of salt exploration in this region reaches even 5000 years B.P. Back then people noticed, that water in this region tastes differently. And during one beautiful day somebody discovered how to obtain it by evaporation. When the water stopped reaching the surface, people were sad, so they started to dig. And they found the solid blocks of NaCl. That is the moment, when our journey into the past starts. It is 13th century. 

The legend says, that the polish king, Bolesław Wstydliwy (the Shy) proposed to hungarian princess - saint Kinga. She did not accept any gold or jewellery as a bride price, but the salt, which she wanted for the "homeland-to-be". So the hungarian king gave her the best mine of his land in Maramaros. During the visit she dropped into the shaft her ring, which was found later in the very first block of salt mined  in Wieliczka. Afterwards, because Bolesław the Shy was shy Kinga remained a virgin and became a saint.

The proposal scene. St Kinga and Bolesław the Shy

The mine reaches over 300 meters under the ground  in the lowest point and the total lenght of the corridors is... wait for it... 300 kilometers! This is like 60 hours of walking! And that is the reason why there is just 1% of the whole mine availible for tourists to explore. Nevertheless it is still 2-3 hour tour. The visitor has opportunity to see three out of nine levels of the mine. 135 meters under the surface. 

St Antoni's Chapel
Let's focus on the Tourist Route. Imagine that the first "commercial" tourists were here in the end of the 17th century. Austrians decided to share the polish heritage already back then. As it seems the mine still cares about this tradition. So what is down there what you can admire today? We start the trip moving 65 meters down stairs to the first level of the mine. Following the guide we pass the salty corridors and original chambers, mostly from the 17th century. They were adapted for the visitors and we may admire old chapels, mining equipment and statues made of salt. 


The most impressive is Saint Kinga's Chapel, though. This place is called an "underground church" and is located 101 meters below the surface. The walls are covered with  amazing, carved in salt reliefs presenting the life of Jesus Christ. There are also relics of the pope - John Paul II (two drops of blood) and Saint Kinga. I have to admit - the photos cannot show the real beauty of this breathtaking place. I was not so sure if is it really worth to see when, depending on pictures, I went there last sunday. But it is. Definitely.

St Kinga's Chapel
The Tourist Route is getting more and more interactive every year as well. Today we can for instance listen to the classical music in the Weimar Chamber or to understand how the miners were getting rid of dangerous and explosive methane by an animation. Encouraged? No? So maybe let's take a loot at some photos!






But.

There is also completely different way of the salt mine experience. Maybe even better. It is called the Miners' Route and it is... awesome. I have visited this place yesterday and I am very impressed. It was opened about 230 years after the "mainstream route" - in the autumn of 2012, so it is still not as popular, but I think that this is a huge advantage of that place. Maybe some statistics - during the whole summer number of tourists on the Miners' Route - 16 000. One-day record of the Tourist Route - 13 000. 


One of the corridors
You receive an equipment - a miners' outfit, a helmet and of course a flashlight - there is almost no electric lightning on the route. Going down with the Regis Shaft you are getting to the mysterious part of the mine. What is amazing about this place? The climate. You can really feel like a miner using the historical machines, stepping up the ladders and doing real job. After all you can get out with a real piece of salt. As I did. There are sightseeing attractions as well - for instance the huge obelisk made for the austrian archduke Franz Karl, who were bragging that he filled a whole barrel with a salt - this particular barrel had its own place as well, we still can see the remainings of that. The whole trip appeals to the imagination - you have an impression that you experience and hear about things, that the others do not have access. Furthermore. This part is older than the second route's. It comes even from the 14th century! Knowledgable leader was also very enthusiastic and seemed fascinated about what he was saying, which made this trip even more succesful. 





However, I do not want to describe everything - let's leave some job for the guides! For sure the salt mine must be a part of the trip to Poland. Even the communication just forces us to visit this place - it is just 25 minutes from the Cracow's city center. By bus. So if you want to see something special - do not hestitate! Visit Poland!