Friday, April 11, 2014

The Jasna Góra Monastery


source: eioba.pl
There is no Pole, who does not know this place. The Jasna Góra monastery, located in Częstochowa, is the most important and the best known church in Poland. It is called as national sanctuary of polish nation and its history reaches medival times. Why is it so significant and why, whenever you are, you may find pictures of the Black Madonna of Częstochowa all around Poland? I will try to explain.

Back in 1382 the duke Władysław Opolczyk brought Pauline monks from Hungary to the old parish church in Częstochowa and established a monastery. The name Jasna Góra (lat. Clarus Mons, eng. Luminous Mount) was taken after their home monastery in Buda. The second reason of giving this name is that the church is located on the limestone hill, pretty bright rock, I persume.


The Black Madonna of Częstochowa.
source: wikimedia.org
The most important moment in the history of Jasna Góra  happened two years later, when the painting of Mary Lady arrived from the Kingdom of Rus' to Częstochowa. According to the legend it was painted by saint Luke on the board of the table on which Jesus with his family used to eat meals. From Jerusalem saint Helen brought it to Constantinople where the icon stayed in eperor's chapel for next centuries. In the second half of 12th century the painting was taken to the Kingdom of Rus', where it got famous because of numerous miracles it caused. When the Kingdom became part of Poland Władysław Opolczyk gave it to recently established monastery. Few decades later church was robbed. The thieves took the sacred painting as well, but when they tried to escape, their horses couldn't move. In rage one of the robbers threw the icon onto the ground and second one tried to cut it with a sword - and that is the origin of two scars on the cheek of the Black Madonna. Nevertheles the whole story has a happy ending - first of the thieves was ripped of into the pieces, second's arm withered and all the rest died or got blind. 

The Siege of Częstochowa.
 source: wikimedia.org
The Black Maddona of Częstochowa got extraordinarily famous among the polish nation in 1655, after the swedish siege of Częstochowa. Scandinavians, coming from the north, have been destroying everything on their way. Just in case father Augustyn Kordecki signed an agreement with Swedes that they will not hurt the monks. Although he had many doubts about that, so he organized a small (160 soldiers) army which task was to defend Częstochowa. Of course when Scandinavians arrived, they demanded to get into the Monastery and monks did not agree. Swedes attacked. 160 soldiers, 50 guys who knew something about making guns, 20 fat noblemen and 70 monks against 3200 blonde warriors. It did not seem likely to survive the siege, however with a small help of the Black Madonna monks won and, as it turned out, it was the most significant battle of the whole swedish crusade - afterwards they had to turn back.

But. Due to the fact, that all over the history, when some country got a bit bored it simply decided to attack Poland, already two years later the whole country was occupied by the ancient Russians and (what is wrong with them?) Swedes. The king decided to come to Częstochowa and vow a few things to the Mary Lady. Inter aila he made her the Queen of Poland, so she save a country once more and the nation started to worship the Black Madonna even more. The icon was crowned, as a first painting out of Rome, by the pope Clement XI in 1717. Because of that we connot see the whole painting in the monastery. The Black Madonna "wears" a dress and the crown, so we may admire only the piece of the Mary Lady - her head, one hand and part of baby Jesus kept on her arm.

The dress and crowns.
 source: wiadomosci.wp.pl

Even in the newest history Częstochowa has also its significant position on the polish way to freedom. In 1953 took place very first Appeal of Jasna Góra - the prayer in intention of repressed nation in the totalitarian system. Until today this event occurs every day in the Chapel of Mary Lady of Czestochowa at 9 P.M. During the communism period the Church in Poland was prosecuted by the authorities. However, it did not stop the pilgrims, even due to the development of transport the pilgrimages became more common at this time. Imagine that for the celebrations in 1956 one million (!) people showed up. So pilgrims were coming like in the past and the Jasna Góra Monastery became a national symbol of resistance from the communists' repressions. Imagine that in seventhies the government used to send spies to the pilgrimages trying to control the rebelling nation. The forbidden fruit tastes better, right?

Pilgrimage in 1956. source: gosc.pl

Of course these are only the most significant events of the monastery. Even if it seems pretty long, in fact it was very brief presentation of the history. But let's check what we may see when we finally got the destination of our pilgrimage. 

The Basilica is definitely a "must see" in Częstochowa. Its baroque shape comes from 17th and 18th century, although the oldest part - the presbitery was built even in 15th century in gothic style. It is worth to take a look on the main alter from 1728, which presents entering heaven by Mary Lady and 17th-century chapels on the side. In the sacrysty we may find frescos, which come also from the same period. But I think that instead of douche's speech let's take a look on some pictures.


The sacrysty. source: wikimedia.org
The organs. source: polskiekrajobrazy.pl
The main alter. source: lamusikcountry.blogspot.com

But where can we find the Chapel of Black Madonna? We do not have to seek far away - it is connected to the Basillica. When I was young I did not care about some weirdoes praying in fornt of something I cannot even see, because I am too small. The things which got my attention, and in fact still do, are so-called votive offerings. These are object which cover all the walls around - people left them at the Jasna Góra Monastery, when they finally reach their destination. We may find old rosaries, medals, private things and even crutches for the disabled! The wooden alter with the painting is masterpiece from 1625 and it is located in the oldest, 15th-century  part of the chapel. Second, renaissance part with the votives, was built in 1641-44 and the newest one already in 20th century. On the side of the main alter the pope - John Paul II left a covered with his own blood belt from the cassock, which he was wearing, when he was shot in 1981.


The main alter with the painting. source: gosc.pl
The crutches on the wall.
The votives in the Chapel. source: polskaniezwykla.pl
The Chapel. source: polskieszlaki.pl
Apart that it is worth to climb up the 106-meter tower of the monastery, visit the treasury with magnificent examples of various objects, even from 14th century and the gallery. If you are interested in fortifications it is worth to walk around them a bit as well. Nevertheless the Jasna Góra Monastery still has very special place in polish nation history. Annually about 3-4 million people visits Częstochowa, what makes it one of the biggest pilgrimage and touristic centers of Europe. And there is a reason of that.


The fortifications.
On the way to the tower...
... and the view from the top.