The Jasna Góra Monastery

source: eioba.pl

There is no Pole, who does not know this place. The Jasna Góra monastery, located in Częstochowa, is the most important and the best known church in Poland. It is called as national sanctuary of polish nation and its history reaches medival times. Why is it so significant and why, whenever you are, you may find pictures of the Black Madonna of Częstochowa all around Poland? I will try to explain.

Back in 1382 the duke Władysław Opolczyk brought Pauline monks from Hungary to the old parish church in Częstochowa and established a monastery. The name Jasna Góra (lat. Clarus Mons, eng. Luminous Mount) was taken after their home monastery in Buda. The second reason of giving this name is that the church is located on the limestone hill, pretty bright rock, I persume.

The Black Madonna of Częstochowa.
source: wikimedia.org

The most important moment in the history of Jasna Góra  happened two years later, when the painting of Mary Lady arrived from the Kingdom of Rus' to Częstochowa. According to the legend it was painted by saint Luke on the board of the table on which Jesus with his family used to eat meals. From Jerusalem saint Helen brought it to Constantinople where the icon stayed in eperor's chapel for next centuries. In the second half of 12th century the painting was taken to the Kingdom of Rus', where it got famous because of numerous miracles it caused. When the Kingdom became part of Poland Władysław Opolczyk gave it to recently established monastery. Few decades later church was robbed. The thieves took the sacred painting as well, but when they tried to escape, their horses couldn't move. In rage one of the robbers threw the icon onto the ground and second one tried to cut it with a sword - and that is the origin of two scars on the cheek of the Black Madonna. Nevertheles the whole story has a happy ending - first of the thieves was ripped of into the pieces, second's arm withered and all the rest died or got blind. 

The Siege of Częstochowa.
 source: wikimedia.org

The Black Maddona of Częstochowa got extraordinarily famous among the polish nation in 1655, after the swedish siege of Częstochowa. Scandinavians, coming from the north, have been destroying everything on their way. Just in case father Augustyn Kordecki signed an agreement with Swedes that they will not hurt the monks. Although he had many doubts about that, so he organized a small (160 soldiers) army which task was to defend Częstochowa. Of course when Scandinavians arrived, they demanded to get into the Monastery and monks did not agree. Swedes attacked. 160 soldiers, 50 guys who knew something about making guns, 20 fat noblemen and 70 monks against 3200 blonde warriors. It did not seem likely to survive the siege, however with a small help of the Black Madonna monks won and, as it turned out, it was the most significant battle of the whole swedish crusade - afterwards they had to turn back.

But. Due to the fact, that all over the history, when some country got a bit bored it simply decided to attack Poland, already two years later the whole country was occupied by the ancient Russians and (what is wrong with them?) Swedes. The king decided to come to Częstochowa and vow a few things to the Mary Lady. Inter aila he made her the Queen of Poland, so she save a country once more and the nation started to worship the Black Madonna even more. The icon was crowned, as a first painting out of Rome, by the pope Clement XI in 1717. Because of that we connot see the whole painting in the monastery. The Black Madonna "wears" a dress and the crown, so we may admire only the piece of the Mary Lady - her head, one hand and part of baby Jesus kept on her arm.

The dress and crowns.
 source: wiadomosci.wp.pl

Even in the newest history Częstochowa has also its significant position on the polish way to freedom. In 1953 took place very first Appeal of Jasna Góra - the prayer in intention of repressed nation in the totalitarian system. Until today this event occurs every day in the Chapel of Mary Lady of Czestochowa at 9 P.M. During the communism period the Church in Poland was prosecuted by the authorities. However, it did not stop the pilgrims, even due to the development of transport the pilgrimages became more common at this time. Imagine that for the celebrations in 1956 one million (!) people showed up. So pilgrims were coming like in the past and the Jasna Góra Monastery became a national symbol of resistance from the communists' repressions. Imagine that in seventhies the government used to send spies to the pilgrimages trying to control the rebelling nation. The forbidden fruit tastes better, right?

Pilgrimage in 1956. source: gosc.pl

Of course these are only the most significant events of the monastery. Even if it seems pretty long, in fact it was very brief presentation of the history. But let's check what we may see when we finally got the destination of our pilgrimage. 

The Basilica is definitely a "must see" in Częstochowa. Its baroque shape comes from 17th and 18th century, although the oldest part - the presbitery was built even in 15th century in gothic style. It is worth to take a look on the main alter from 1728, which presents entering heaven by Mary Lady and 17th-century chapels on the side. In the sacrysty we may find frescos, which come also from the same period. But I think that instead of douche's speech let's take a look on some pictures.

The sacrysty. source: wikimedia.org

The organs. source: polskiekrajobrazy.pl

The main alter. source: lamusikcountry.blogspot.com

But where can we find the Chapel of Black Madonna? We do not have to seek far away - it is connected to the Basillica. When I was young I did not care about some weirdoes praying in fornt of something I cannot even see, because I am too small. The things which got my attention, and in fact still do, are so-called votive offerings. These are object which cover all the walls around - people left them at the Jasna Góra Monastery, when they finally reach their destination. We may find old rosaries, medals, private things and even crutches for the disabled! The wooden alter with the painting is masterpiece from 1625 and it is located in the oldest, 15th-century  part of the chapel. Second, renaissance part with the votives, was built in 1641-44 and the newest one already in 20th century. On the side of the main alter the pope - John Paul II left a covered with his own blood belt from the cassock, which he was wearing, when he was shot in 1981.

The main alter with the painting. source: gosc.pl

The crutches on the wall.

The votives in the Chapel. source: polskaniezwykla.pl

The Chapel. source: polskieszlaki.pl

Apart that it is worth to climb up the 106-meter tower of the monastery, visit the treasury with magnificent examples of various objects, even from 14th century and the gallery. If you are interested in fortifications it is worth to walk around them a bit as well. Nevertheless the Jasna Góra Monastery still has very special place in polish nation history. Annually about 3-4 million people visits Częstochowa, what makes it one of the biggest pilgrimage and touristic centers of Europe. And there is a reason of that.

The fortifications.

On the way to the tower...

... and the view from the top.

The Tatra Mountains

Niebieska Turnia. Pic. www.bartoszjania.com

Yes, these are not the Alps, nor the Pyrenees! The Tatra Mountains are located in the southern Poland, right on the current border with Slovakia and they are the only high mountains in the country. It is a polish treasure, though. Different culture, beautiful views and uniqueness on the area of Poland makes this place very special. I dare even say, that almost every Pole was there at least once.

I will not bore you with a history of the national park located at this place. All you need to know, that is it one of the oldest in Poland, established in 1955. The interesting part is nature. The views may seem similar to the alpine landscape, but the real mountain fan can see the difference between them. High density of the hiking trials will help to get to the most beautiful parts of the range. And find out the magic of this place. So let's hike around a bit!

Czarny Staw

View from Świnica. Pics. www.bartoszjania.com

The Chochołowska Valley

The longest and the biggest valley in the polish Tatras and the place where in 1938 people tried to beat the record of the highest baloon flight in the world. Tried. But it is not the reason why you should came here. Arrive in early spring and you will not regret. View of the vast purple carpet of crocuses is breathtaking. The pictures cannot even express the real beauty of this place in that specific period. To prove this opinion it is worth to mention that it was the most favourite touristic spot of the pope John Paul II. And that is the reason why:

Source: plangenerator.pl

Source: polskalokalna.pl

The Valley of the Five Polish Ponds (Dolina Pięciu Stawów Polskich)

One of the most popular valleys in the Tatras, where the very first tourists appeared even in 19th century. As the name says during the hike you will find five small ponds - paradoxically one of the deepest lakes in Poland reaching even 79 m under the surface. Where did they come from? The reason is hidden in the past. Back in time the Tatra Mountains were glaciated - the lakes are the remainings of the glaciers, which modelled the area around - including mentioned valley.When the ice has melted, the ponds appeared. The biggest of them is Wielki Staw Polski. The valley has interesting flora as well - you may find here many endemic species, which cannot be found in any other place around the world.

Siklawa waterfall on the way to the Valley

Wielki Staw

Pic. www.bartoszjania.com

Source: mojetatry.pl 

Source: myzakopane.pl

Morskie Oko

The biggest and absolutely the most famous lake in the Tatras with one of the oldest shelters in the mountains nearby, built in 1908. How famous? In 1873 Walery Eljasz has written that "being in the Tatras and not to see Morskie Oko is like to be in Rome and not to see the pope". The place was even a subject of a dispute between Galicia and Hungary in 19th century. As a popular spot it must have its own legend - it is said that the lake has a connection to the Adriatic Sea. The proof of that meant to be the bottle "fished out" from the lake, which came from the sunken ship... The name of that pond might be confusing as well. In fact "Morskie Oko", which means "Sea's Eye" comes from german "meerauge". The Germans used to call like that every lake in the Tatras in the past and the real polish name is Biały Staw (White Pond) or Rybi Staw (Fish Pond). The second name has a simple explanation - it is a lake, where the fish are living in natural conditions - they were not "planted" here by the people. Nevertheless... Maybe some pictures of the place as an encouragement?

Pic. www.bartoszjania.com

Source: fabianka.flog.pl

Source: turystyka.wp.pl

Rysy

The hightest peak in Poland - 2499 meters asl. When Dutch people, who live -70 meters below sea level, would die there due to lack of the air at this elevation, the Austrians would say that they have never been so low in their lives trying to understand, how something below 4000 meter can be consider as "high". Anyway in Poland it is equal to "the biggest" and it would be difficult to change, but polish poeple do not complain. This is an another specific spot with unique, endemic flora, where the hiking trial leads. Imagine, that above the elevation of 2483 you still may see 63 different species of flowering plants and many of them could be found only in the Tatras. The view from the peak is astonishing. During good weather conditions from the top you may see Cracow, which is about 100 km away!

The top of Rysy. Pic. www.bartoszjania.com

Source: turnia.pl

Giewont

There is no Poland, if there is no cross somewhere. Even in the mountains. The peak of Giewont is the symbol of Zakopane - the city located at the foot of the Tatras. The legend says, that it is a sleeping knight - and its appearance may really resemble a lying body. Giewont had many sibilings - one of them was Osobita, his sister. The brave knight's task was to keep the family safe, so when the king Mróz (Frost) wanted to get closer to her he kept him away. It made him angry, so with his mistress they planned a ruse. She [the mistress] tried to seduce Giewont. And when he replied for the flirt the king Mróz has frozen his feet and they made him fell on the back. And Giewont sleeps until today. Nevertheles it is famous pilgrimage point because of the mentioned 17-meter cross from 1901 on the top.

On the way to the Giewont's top. Pic. www.bartoszjania.com

Source: wikimedia.org

The sleeping knight. Source: wikimedia.org

If you are interested in wintersports you will find a place for you as well. Kasprowy Wierch with a famous ski lift and the destination of the skiers of Poland. But let's be honest - you cannot compare that to the Alps or even to the Slovak part of the Tatras.- it is the only place where real alpine sking "occures" in Poland. So maybe you will give it a try? Anyway, it was just a brief presentation of that mountain range, but you should come here on your own and discover its beauty. I am sure that many of you even have not considered the existance of the views like that in this country. But well... there is still so much to describe!

Pics. www.bartoszjania.com

The Fortified Front Oder-Warthe-Bogen

I have met many people. So as many travel purposes - to see the art and visit museums, to discover nature and, of course, to party. But there are also people interested in specific issues, such as war, for instance. And this is the place especially for them - the Fortified Front Oder-Warthe-Bogen (MRU) (pol. Międzyrzecki Rejon Umocniony, ger. Festungsfront Oder-Warthe-Bogen)

Let's go back to the past, though. 90 years back. The original german plan for the II WW was to attack France, not Poland. Due to the alliance between those two countries, Germany had to defend its eastern border - Poland, in case of invasion, vowed to attack Germans from the East. The works started already in 1925 - Germany decided to strengthen the fortresses and fortify the rivers and natural water obstacles along the border. Although the most important, strategic part of the stucture, called "Lubuska Gate", was still not built.

Source: ruszajwdroge.pl

Why was that part so important? It was the central section of the project, between Warta and Oder rivers. If you would take a look on the map and localize Berlin, the entire plan may seem undersandable. Relation is very simple - Hitler attacks France, the whole army goes to the West and leaves unprotected Berlin. Polish soldiers choose the easiest way to get through the East Germany - straight to the capital. Poland wins the war, everybody gets drunk. But, unfortunately, things turned out otherwise. Nevertheless Fuhrer started to build the mentioned part in 1933. Hitler even visited the construction site in 1935 and was very satisfied. His flattering opinion encouraged the builders to work even harder - comparing to MRU the Maginot Line supposed to be a system of Lego constructions made by a dog.

However, because of the Fall Grun (Case Green), which completely changed the direction of the attack from France to Czechoslovakia, the whole fortification line became unnecessary. Furthermore, it would be useful during the I WW, but the rules have changed and the MRU became just a problem for the Germans. Eventually the system was conquered by the Red Army in 3 days in 1945. The reason why it was so quick is simple - it was defended by a small group of soldiers, mainly elders, who had no professional training and just ran away from the battlefield.

Until the beginning of the II WW Hitler finished about 30% of the plan. Along 100 km Germans managed to built 106 bunkers, of which 21 are connected together with a 31-kilometers long tunnels network 40 meters under the ground.

We have met our guide in the small museum, where is an opportunity to see original german mines and things left by soldiers during the war - guns, bags, outfits, documents etc. After a small introduction we went out to the 10-kilometer long system of protection against tanks called "the dragon's teeth" or "the camel humps" and afterwards we headed to the main attraction - the bunker nr 717.

The Dragon's Teeth

If you have ever played the Call of Duty or the Medal of Honour you might feel in this place like on the mission. The first floor is an "life zone" and a place where the soldiers could defend themselves. Narrow corridors and makeshift toilets and bedrooms perfectly capture the atmosphere - you may have an impression, that the soldiers left the shelter just a few days ago. Even the telephone looks like it is about to ring with the orders. Let's move on deeper under the ground, though. We reach the most important part - magazine, barracks, engine room and... the railway station! There is even opportunity to try it! The reason of its existance is simple - 31 kilometers of tunnels is quite difficult to get through. The construction is impressive, but it is the end yet. As it turns out the system is also the home for... 35 thousand bats! In the winter they are sleeping on the walls of the corridors and in the niches we may meet even whole groups of them. The natural reserve was established in 1980 here - to save the hideout of those lovely creatures.

As a conclusion. Even if you are not someone, who spends every afternoon dressed like an officer with a metal detector looking for the bullets and soldiers' teeth it may be place for you. This is an unique enclave, where you can feel the climate of the II WW. However, the smallest amount of interest is required - otherwise it is going to be the 2,5 hour trip in the dark corridors, where some crazy bat can attack you. But for me it sounds interesting. How about you?